Sunday, August 16, 2009

Killer Dim Sum, ‘Canteen of Tycoons’: Dine & Deal in Hong Kong

By Le-Min Lim
April 27 (Bloomberg) -- A hint at how seriously Hong Kong takes its food is a common greeting among familiars, “Have you eaten?” The best way to close a deal in this town is over a good meal and fine wine or Pu-er tea. With some digging, you’ll find good food in every corner, at every budget.
Here is our selection, in alphabetical order, for dining in Hong Kong:
1. Bo Innovation: Shop 13, 2nd Floor, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wanchai, Hong Kong. Information: +852-2850-8371; http://www.boinnovation.com
What: Molecular Chinese fusion cuisine.
Why: Chef Alvin Leung serves molecular cuisine that’s big on innovation and taste. Imagine madcap combinations like “cheung fan” -- a savory Chinese sausage -- made into ice cream or lobster served with the foam of preserved duck egg. Odd as the dishes sound, they actually taste good. If you weary of making small talk about the weather, food is a great conservation piece here. No surprise Bo Innovation has won every major culinary award in the city; add to that two Michelin stars.
Where: Near Wanchai’s bar district.
When: Anytime. Bo Innovation is underrated and out of the way, so isn’t usually crowded. The chef’s 12-course menu costs about HK$1,080+ (about US$140).
Bar: No.
Private Room: Yes, seats 12.

2. Caprice: Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, Hong Kong. Information: +852-3196-8888; http://www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining.html
What: Traditional French.
Why: Impeccable service. First-rate food (One even gets to choose between salted and unsalted butter). Great view. Two Michelin stars. What else does one need?
Where: Near Hong Kong’s central business district.
When: It’s an experience to be savored. Choose the nine- course set dinner at HK$1,280+.
Bar: Yes.
Private Room: Three, the largest one seats up to 16.

3. Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao: Shop 2018-20, IFC Mall, No. 8 Finance St., Hong Kong. Information: +852-2295-3811.
What: Shanghainese meets fast food.
Why: Unpretentious Shanghainese food served in hearty portions. Try the signature Little Dragon Buns, soup-filled buns served steamed, or the La Mian, basin-size bowls of noodles topped with your gravy of choice: beef, sweet-and-sour or chicken soup.
Where: Near the Hong Kong central business district.
When: It’s always packed during regular lunch and dinner hours, with queues of 45 minutes or longer. To avoid the crush, go before 12:30 p.m. for lunch and 5:50 p.m. for dinner. About HK$100+ per head.
Bar: No.
Private Room: No.

4. Dot Cod Seafood Restaurant and Oyster Bar: Basement, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Hong Kong. Information: +852-2810-6988; http://www.dotcod.com
What: Seafood.
Why: Bankers cram with civil servants for an honest lunch of fish-and-chips and salmon steak; food is several cuts above pub grub.
Where: Across the road from HSBC Building, in Hong Kong’s central business district.
When: Lunch, dinner, pre-dinner drinks. Book at least a day ahead to secure a table. Set lunch costs about HK$150+.
Bar: Yes.
Private Room: Yes, seats 20.

5. Fook Lam Moon: 35-45 Johnston Rd., Hong Kong. Information: +852-2866-0663. http://www.fooklammoon-grp.com/en/home.htm
What: Traditional Cantonese cuisine.
Why: It’s called “Canteen of the Tycoons.” Come lunchtime, cars as big as medieval beasts and with single-digit license-plates cram the street of Wanchai outside this restaurant and disgorge some of the city’s richest men. Staff greets regulars by name. Security is austere, though the setting is surprisingly casual and the food, affordable. For Cantonese food at its best, try the dim sum and double-boiled soup. The restaurant will also go to lengths to secure exotic ingredients. Best to stick with beef and fish.
Where: Near the Wanchai bar district.
When: Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. About HK$150+ per head, excluding wine.
Bar: No.
Private Room: Yes.

6. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon: Shop 401, Fourth Floor, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd., Central, Hong Kong. Information: +852- 2166-9000; http://www.joel-robuchon.com
What: French with flair.
Why: A reminder why Joel Robuchon is a French culinary legend. The two Michelin-star restaurant blends textures and flavors to produce dishes that delight the senses. Try the sea urchin in lobster jelly topped with cauliflower cream for proof that in food, as in most things, simple is sublime. Good for both business and high-end play. One of our favorites.
Where: Hong Kong’s business district
When: A three-course set lunch plus coffee at the counter is a bargain at HK$390+; the 8-course dinner tasting menu starts at HK$1,450+. Find an excuse to go.
Bar: Yes.
Private Room: Dark wood and dignified.

7. Luk Yu Tea House: 24-26 Stanley St., Central, Hong Kong. Information: +852-2523-5464.
What: Traditional Cantonese food in old Hong Kong setting.
Why: Luk Yu isn’t just a restaurant, it’s an institution. With its wainscoted dining hall, marble tabletops, and wall- mounted blue-white vases, Luk Yu evokes the romance of Old Hong Kong. It’s the scene of a gangland-style assassination in 2002.
Its previously cantankerous waiters have swapped terse outbursts for sardonic smirks, and are efficient as ever. Try authentic Cantonese dishes like braised goose feet with mushrooms or signature item almond soup with pig’s lungs, orange peel and dates.
Where: Near the bar district of Lan Kwai Fong.
When: Go in the evening to experience the Cantonese-style family dinner atmosphere. Affordable. About HK$450+ a head, excluding wine.
Bar: No.
Private Room: No.

8. Lung King Heen: Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, Hong Kong. Information: +852-3196-8888; http://www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining.html
What: Contemporary Cantonese.
Why: In December, its Chef Yan Tak Chan became the first Chinese to win three Michelin stars. Michelin director Jean-Luc Naret says Chan is consistently excellent over the 12 years the guide has tracked him. Lung King Heen -- which means View of the Dragon -- serves fine contemporary Cantonese food with emphasis on seafood and dim sum. It’s perfect for the out-of-town guest who wants to sample Cantonese food in a hotel setting. The spectacular harbor view doesn’t hurt either.
Where: Four Seasons Hotel.
When: An 8-course chef’s menu costs HK$1,080+ and HK$1,560, with wine. Dim sum starts at about HK$45+ for a bamboo basket of fried spring rolls.
Bar: Yes.
Private Room: Yes, seats up to 14 people.

9. Mak’s Noodle: 77 Wellington St., Central, Hong Kong. Information: +852-2854-3810.
What: No-frills traditional wonton-noodle store.
Why: Actor Chow Yun-fat drops in to get his fix of wontons at this modest store two blocks away from Hong Kong’s so-called antiques street. Mak’s Noodle is among the city’s best: The quail-egg size wontons come soaked in a soup base made of ground flounder, dried shrimps and pork bones. The grandfather of present owner Mak Chi-ming once served the dish to Chiang Kai- shek.
Where: Two blocks away from Hong Kong’s antique hub.
When: Open daily 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. A standard bowl with four wontons costs HK$28.
Bar: No.
Private Room: No.
10. Ming Garden Restaurant: Ground Floor, 38 Queen’s Rd. East, Wanchai, Hong Kong. Information: +852-2861-3798.
What: Fine Cantonese cuisine at bargain prices.
Why: Locals flock to this restaurant for fine Cantonese food, such as abalone and braised goose-feet, at about one-tenth the price of high-end joints. Its decor is perfunctory and the dining space fills with the din of spoken Cantonese during meal hours. This is the perfect for the more adventurous overseas client that wants to go local.
When: Lunch, dinner. Book at least half a day ahead to secure a table. Set lunch costs as little as HK$100 per head. No service charge.
Bar: No.
Private Room: No.

11. Robuchon a Galera: 3rd Floor, Lisboa Tower, 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa, Macao. Information: +853-2888-3888; http://www.hotelisboa.com/htmlindex2.htm
What: Continental European.
Why: This is Joel Robuchon’s only formal restaurant in China. In December, it won three Michelin stars. With more than 2,800 classic French, Italian, American, Australian and German wines, it has one of Asia’s best cellars.
Where: Hotel Lisboa, the grand dame of casinos in Macau, affectionately known as ‘The Birdcage.’
When: Lunch or dinner. The 12-course tasting menu costs 2,288 patacas+; the set lunch menus start at 398 patacas+.
Bar: Yes.
Private Room: Yes.

12. Sushi Hiro: 10th Floor, Henry House, 42 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Information: +852-2882-8752.
What: Traditional Japanese food.
Why: It has the freshest sushi and sashimi in town. No competition. Its rudimentary decor and distance from the business district haven’t stopped the restaurant from packing in the office crowd at lunch time. It’s a haunt for Japanese expatriates, a favorite of Michelin-starred chefs in Hong Kong.
Get a seat at the sushi bar, ask for the omakase and let the chef pick your dinner for you.
Where: In the shopping district of Causeway Bay.
When: Book at least 2 days before to secure a seat. Dinnertime is less crowded. Expect to pay about HK$800+ (a bargain for such quality), excluding wine, for the omakase.
Bar: No.
Private Room: Tatami rooms, seats up to eight.

13. Tanyoto: 129-135 Johnston Rd., Wanchai, Hong Kong. Information: +852-2893-9268; http://www.tanyoto.com.hk
What: Traditional Sichuan.
Why: Another personal favorite. If you like food spicy enough to melt your stomach, and is fragrant to boot, this is your place. Try traditional dishes like Shuijuyu, or grouper soaked in hot chili oil, Sichuan peppers and three kinds of chili, for that tongue-numbing blast that leaves you craving for more. The hotpot is also a hit. I’d eat here everyday if my stomach could take it.
Where: Near the Wanchai bar district.
When: For informal business dinners. About HK$500+ buys a four-course dinner.
Bar: No.
Private Room: No.

14. Zuma: Landmark Atrium, Level 5 & 6, 15 Queens Rd., Central, Hong Kong. Information: +852-3657-6388; http://www.zumarestaurant.com/zuma_hk.html
What: Japanese with zing.
Why: If for nothing else, go for the ambience. Zuma’s tall windows let in lots of sunlight, giving the restaurant an expansive feel that’s rare in jam-packed Hong Kong. Like Rainer Becker’s London original, Zuma gives Japanese food a twist by adding spices like black pepper. Food is unique, though not outstanding. Service is slow. The huge outdoor deck is perfect as a meeting place for after-work drinks.
Where: Hong Kong’s business district.
When: For special occasions or corporate outings. An 11- course tasting menu starts at HK$870+ each.
Bar: Well-stocked and stylish.
Private Room: Three, the biggest one seats 25 people.

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