Gvsto

The place: Gvsto

• Room 201-203, 2/F, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Rd. Central, Central

Gvsto is the quintessential three-star dining experience: nothing particularly remarkable, just good food, good value and good service. The semi-buffet is popular on the weekends—for just $170, you get an unlimited appetizer buffet, one main and a coffee. Admittedly, the items on the buffet aren’t very special (salads, cheeses, soggy artichokes drenched in oil...), but the pastas are superb. We particularly liked the tagliatelle con ragu, the beef ravioli and the spinach lasagna; all perfectly al dente and well proportioned (even though the plates are ginormous, the portions are just right). The dessert bar was a big hit too, with a wide array of Italian pastries (the panna rappresa deserves a special mention). But Gvsto’s biggest drawback is its location. “The Nexxus” is a brand spanking new Hong Kong-style office building, replete with white linoleum all around, slippery floors and glossy walls. Unfortunately, this aesthetic carries over to Gvsto itself—which is just as blindingly white and slick as the building it calls home. Many an Italian will tell you that great Italian food has “soul”—but thanks to the surroundings here, that is exactly what is missing from the Gvsto experience.